Descending capacity, like any other skill, it's best to improving practice. The longer you can spend on the technical descents more confidence and speed to be able to develop. A few local Hot Shots know their practice in motor racing before strategic declines. Although frequent group rides are the best way to develop real bike handling skills with others in descending order does not necessarily help you descend faster alone.
Relax
The most important aspect is rapidly descending relaxation. Too much anxiety can reduce their concentration and miss important aspects of the road surface ahead. Pressing the speed to the point of fear will not help develop skills in descending order. Work on relaxation and smoothness (no sudden movements, braking and spin) and speed will follow.
Think Ahead
A rapid fall will launch long before a corner on the outside and make every braking needs to be done before entering the turn. Then click the apex in the inner edge of the road, finally coming out again on the outside (always leaving some room for error and unforeseen hazards). The key is to gradually get into position smoothly and follow a line through the corner. If you are doing everything fast, charque movements that take as a sign that you need to slow down and spend a little more attention further up the road.
Brake Ahead
Use your brakes only until the beginning of a corner, never use the brakes in a corner. At that point any traction used for braking significantly reduces the available traction for cornering. If you do not have to brake after entering the curve straightening his line before applying the brakes. If the road surface is good use primarily the front brake. If traction is poor to change the rear brake and start to break before. In auto racing circles there are two schools of thought on the art of braking. One calls for gradually releasing the brakes when entering the corner, the other advises hard braking until the beginning of the curve sharply and the release of the brakes just before entering the curve. A cyclists should probably combine these techniques depending on the road surface, rim veracity, brake hard, wear headset and the proximity of other riders.
Leaning
Motorcyclists and cyclists lean their bicycles very different in a corner. When you go fast motorcyclists keep their bicycles as upright as possible to avoid scraping the pins or pipes. Bicyclists, on the other hand lean their bicycles in the corner and keep the body upright. Both motorcyclists and cyclists in extending the knee down to lower the center of gravity. To pedal through corners like a motorcycle make and keep the bike upright while the inner part of the pedal is down.
Turning
One of the hardest things about fall into a group is going. It is not always possible to start the fall ahead of anyone who may be slower decline. If you are behind someone who is easy to take either hang out a safe distance behind or move very carefully. Turning to a fall is always difficult and dangerous. By the same token, if you're in front of someone who obviously wants to spend, not to mention them at the earliest safe time. Never proceed to impede the progress of someone on a journey of training if they are in bicycle or a car. Always make enough room for anyone trying to pass no matter what the speed limit can be. Be courteous and considerate and happy forever.
Go Easy
Remember that racing down is not what bike racing is all about. There is no need to keep up with Jones. "This is what causes many an accident. Compete against yourself in the downturn. The Belgians are notoriously slow descenders due to the constant rain conditions. However, some of the best cyclists of world on trains rainy roads. Do not get caught pushing some wet or unknown descent. Be prepared for a car or a patch of oil or dirt in the middle of your way around every blind corner no matter how many times have you been on a road. Take it easy, relax, exercise their powers of concentration and hammer again when you can turn the pedals.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Techniques for Turning at High Speed
When exactly are washed out in one shift is determined by the traction between the tires and the surface is less than the attraction of centrifugal force, itself a function of his turn radius and the square of its speed.
Leaning
All this assumes, of course, that the rider leans the correct amount on the curve. The biggest mistake novices make is to be timid about tilted, and this slows down as much as improper cadence. You can opt for as much as 45 degrees perfectly safely if your speed is at the bottom of bicycles, motorcycles and finish almost flat when cornering at higher speeds yet. Finding pilots in the heat of competition is looming much more than it had ever dared in everyday training, and that certainly tell the story live. Whenever you have traction and speed, there is no limit other than the psychological trend in.
There are two main ways to lean into a turn. The first and most suited to the trails, is to keep your body in an upright position while pressing the relatively bike down, sometimes almost horizontally, keeping his weight on the pedal and off the inside of the handlebar. This is acceptable performance of which makes is not critical, and traction is uncertain because it is very easy to recover if the ground gives way, and keep cycling between the ground and their meat.
The best way is to turn to remain in its aerodynamics and simply tuck it more lean. This is the best idea of the difficulty packed trails without surprises, or pavement. It is the style of choice if you need every bit of turning capacity can be abrasive, because you've entered the turn going too fast and do not want to have to be scraped off a telephone pole. You can tilt to 45 degrees at high speeds, and if you're in black is very difficult to screw.
If you choose lean, instead of pushing his bicycle for perch, while over it, you can still pedal. Until surprising angles, too - at 28 degrees with toeclip pedals, and with the best Clipless models, up to 36 degrees. If you've ever inclined at 28 degrees, that's steep. Would you like to pedal at all times, unless you're spinning so rapidly that the lean angles on the cause pedal to hit the ground. If you do pedal, then you are not going fast enough, but beware of pedaling when his runs out of liquidation - you can lift the entire rear wheel of the ground and jump as much as one meter on the side. Not only scare the hell you, but this is definitely an evil plan shout during a fall.
The tire pressure
Reducing the tire pressure will improve both the traction (to a point!) To slow down, making it easier curves. Motorcycles, for example, operate with very low tire pressure because the engine can enjoy the inefficiency much more easily than a rider can. Road racers in general want to inflate their tires near the maximum mark, usually 120 to 170 PSI, and does not want to throw the speed which provides that except for unusual situations.
When traction is paramount, using about half that pressure - so that there is a noticeable bulge when riding - help at the expense of significantly higher rolling resistance. With less pressure, the patch where the tires meet the road surface will be significantly higher. However, the waste of energy rolling resistance is remójese right into the tires, increasing tire pressure and temperature, which can be sufficiently critical after half an hour of constant braking in a down the mountain to celebrate the queue sew up tires at its tires.
Speed
Dump your speed before they turn, not him. At the time that I have you all front-wheel traction for braking is a recipe for disaster. To lose speed as quickly as possible before an unexpectedly serious turn, squeeze your rear brake moderately, and that compared with full force. When you feel the rear wheel skid to start, you know that almost all the weight has left behind his back, so that would alleviate the front brake. To postpone the point where its rear wheel loses weight as far as possible, slide back as far as it can while still being able to pull the levers of the brake, right in front of the headquarters. Keep this well until you're happy with their speed, or the shift begins.
If the corner turns out to be greater traction or poorer than the rider had anticipated, of course, the rule of slowdown before they in turn becomes difficult to follow. Or perhaps the degree through the turn is so steep that accelerate rather than turn can handle. The best bet is to leave enough room for speed to stick to his line without having things too dicey discover if some sand. Cut things too well and the fall will end his career as soon as the beginner's habit of slowing down too.
If you have when you brake turns, keep in mind that traction at its front wheel above all, is all used up. If you are in danger of slipping, straightening his turn a bit as you apply rear brake. Despite that detention has no power to the front, his rear brake contributes much less to a skid when turning.
If the situation is grave ...
Well, you have a bit of a problem here. Your best bet is to continue doing emergency braking deep into the curve, turning slightly, until you start running away from black. Ease off the brakes as the slam in turn, and if change is really fast no amount of braking is possible.
He surprised how quickly you can take a turn on whether lean enough, so you just run around the back and you lean right. Stay in your riding position and lean with the bike to about 45 degrees, and not just pushing his bicycle flat underneath you. Yes, that's a lot, and it feels like suicide, but it is perfectly safe in black, and is its only hope.
Anticipating
You may be thinking, after seeing this headline under so many issues, which is the key to cycling. No. It is the key to almost everything in human existence. Think ahead.
Anticipating his route. At the apex of the turn, come as close to the inside shoulder as you can, enter and leave the return to the outside shoulder. Look well ahead, especially when it goes quickly. In turn, seek spots flat surface and in turn on them. A little slowdown gives much more tire grip.
You are better off to anticipate the turning and braking too much, too soon, rather than negligence and knuckle-trawlers do too little, too late. It is much easier to pick up speed again after the round with some strong blows rather than pick up the pieces outside to turn with a spatula.
Anticipate his calculations. Shift gears before entering the turn, so that when you leave it may return to speed as soon as possible.
Remember that in a high-speed descent, the important thing is safety, not fun or go fast. It's easy to let your attention and stop walking over a patch of gravel, or entering a curve too fast. Be alert and attentive mhen traveling at high speeds, your brain bucket or might not be enough.
Leaning
All this assumes, of course, that the rider leans the correct amount on the curve. The biggest mistake novices make is to be timid about tilted, and this slows down as much as improper cadence. You can opt for as much as 45 degrees perfectly safely if your speed is at the bottom of bicycles, motorcycles and finish almost flat when cornering at higher speeds yet. Finding pilots in the heat of competition is looming much more than it had ever dared in everyday training, and that certainly tell the story live. Whenever you have traction and speed, there is no limit other than the psychological trend in.
There are two main ways to lean into a turn. The first and most suited to the trails, is to keep your body in an upright position while pressing the relatively bike down, sometimes almost horizontally, keeping his weight on the pedal and off the inside of the handlebar. This is acceptable performance of which makes is not critical, and traction is uncertain because it is very easy to recover if the ground gives way, and keep cycling between the ground and their meat.
The best way is to turn to remain in its aerodynamics and simply tuck it more lean. This is the best idea of the difficulty packed trails without surprises, or pavement. It is the style of choice if you need every bit of turning capacity can be abrasive, because you've entered the turn going too fast and do not want to have to be scraped off a telephone pole. You can tilt to 45 degrees at high speeds, and if you're in black is very difficult to screw.
If you choose lean, instead of pushing his bicycle for perch, while over it, you can still pedal. Until surprising angles, too - at 28 degrees with toeclip pedals, and with the best Clipless models, up to 36 degrees. If you've ever inclined at 28 degrees, that's steep. Would you like to pedal at all times, unless you're spinning so rapidly that the lean angles on the cause pedal to hit the ground. If you do pedal, then you are not going fast enough, but beware of pedaling when his runs out of liquidation - you can lift the entire rear wheel of the ground and jump as much as one meter on the side. Not only scare the hell you, but this is definitely an evil plan shout during a fall.
The tire pressure
Reducing the tire pressure will improve both the traction (to a point!) To slow down, making it easier curves. Motorcycles, for example, operate with very low tire pressure because the engine can enjoy the inefficiency much more easily than a rider can. Road racers in general want to inflate their tires near the maximum mark, usually 120 to 170 PSI, and does not want to throw the speed which provides that except for unusual situations.
When traction is paramount, using about half that pressure - so that there is a noticeable bulge when riding - help at the expense of significantly higher rolling resistance. With less pressure, the patch where the tires meet the road surface will be significantly higher. However, the waste of energy rolling resistance is remójese right into the tires, increasing tire pressure and temperature, which can be sufficiently critical after half an hour of constant braking in a down the mountain to celebrate the queue sew up tires at its tires.
Speed
Dump your speed before they turn, not him. At the time that I have you all front-wheel traction for braking is a recipe for disaster. To lose speed as quickly as possible before an unexpectedly serious turn, squeeze your rear brake moderately, and that compared with full force. When you feel the rear wheel skid to start, you know that almost all the weight has left behind his back, so that would alleviate the front brake. To postpone the point where its rear wheel loses weight as far as possible, slide back as far as it can while still being able to pull the levers of the brake, right in front of the headquarters. Keep this well until you're happy with their speed, or the shift begins.
If the corner turns out to be greater traction or poorer than the rider had anticipated, of course, the rule of slowdown before they in turn becomes difficult to follow. Or perhaps the degree through the turn is so steep that accelerate rather than turn can handle. The best bet is to leave enough room for speed to stick to his line without having things too dicey discover if some sand. Cut things too well and the fall will end his career as soon as the beginner's habit of slowing down too.
If you have when you brake turns, keep in mind that traction at its front wheel above all, is all used up. If you are in danger of slipping, straightening his turn a bit as you apply rear brake. Despite that detention has no power to the front, his rear brake contributes much less to a skid when turning.
If the situation is grave ...
Well, you have a bit of a problem here. Your best bet is to continue doing emergency braking deep into the curve, turning slightly, until you start running away from black. Ease off the brakes as the slam in turn, and if change is really fast no amount of braking is possible.
He surprised how quickly you can take a turn on whether lean enough, so you just run around the back and you lean right. Stay in your riding position and lean with the bike to about 45 degrees, and not just pushing his bicycle flat underneath you. Yes, that's a lot, and it feels like suicide, but it is perfectly safe in black, and is its only hope.
Anticipating
You may be thinking, after seeing this headline under so many issues, which is the key to cycling. No. It is the key to almost everything in human existence. Think ahead.
Anticipating his route. At the apex of the turn, come as close to the inside shoulder as you can, enter and leave the return to the outside shoulder. Look well ahead, especially when it goes quickly. In turn, seek spots flat surface and in turn on them. A little slowdown gives much more tire grip.
You are better off to anticipate the turning and braking too much, too soon, rather than negligence and knuckle-trawlers do too little, too late. It is much easier to pick up speed again after the round with some strong blows rather than pick up the pieces outside to turn with a spatula.
Anticipate his calculations. Shift gears before entering the turn, so that when you leave it may return to speed as soon as possible.
Remember that in a high-speed descent, the important thing is safety, not fun or go fast. It's easy to let your attention and stop walking over a patch of gravel, or entering a curve too fast. Be alert and attentive mhen traveling at high speeds, your brain bucket or might not be enough.
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Tips for Braking on Roads
Don't lock your wheels
When the brakes in a car are no more than about blocking, braking force is almost 30% higher than when the brake is fully implemented, locking the wheels in a landslide, screeching, belching smoke stop. Locked wheels stop the car quickly and far less because the braking surface is the pavement and a film of melted rubber when the tire contacts, rather than careful engineering brake pads and discs special.
For those with track tyres, and especially for tubular racing tires, blocking the wheels melting all means expensive rubber on the road behind you. A while ago a valve tube in my rear tire became leak, and had to remove it after a few months' use. First, be aware that I had been really kind to my tyres, almost never lock when braking. When I did, I realized that there were about half a dozen spots where banda rolling is melted immediately, in some cases almost to the fabric tight!
Locked wheels are also terrible for the direction and control. You skid and slide, and at worst of all time.
Do not be afraid to use your front brake
When in speed and in a proper launching cycling (bending forward and with a low center of gravity), I have never heard of anyone making a final over blocking its front wheel. In fact, a good brake should not block unless you are trying to block it (an excellent reason to shell out for expensive brakes).
Its front brakes provide 75% of its braking power, and are more difficult to block and not let her back on the slide behind you. On the other hand, you have reason to evade the front brake when you download a steep hill, especially slowly or on a motorcycle when you sit upright (get a new bike if you do), or if you're turning and the need control.
When the brakes, the weight of the rear wheel transfers to the front. If you try hard enough and have enough strength in their hands, can block any front brake and brake as quickly as possible without blocking the wheels is the goal of any emergency stop. The trick is to know whether you're squeezing as hard as you can initiate a short pitchover. In a typical bike with geometry, this point is reached when the rider tries to slow down by more than 0.67 gees, or to halt more than 23.6 mph in one second.
To stop as quickly as possible, squeeze your rear brake lever with moderate strength and resilience to the lever, with the objective of a ratio of 3:1 compared with the braking force rear braking force. Listen and feel his rear tire: when it starts to skid, you know who has lost almost all his weight on the rear wheel. When this happens, ease off his front brake until it is sufficient weight in the rear wheel to keep it on the ground, with sufficient traction and stopping the skid.
Put your weight on Wheels
If you're about to do hard braking with its front wheel, backward as far as you can, even moving immediately saddle. The limits to the farthest back can travel safely will be able to maintain the bars and brakes and be able to run with some traction. As the ride over potholes and depressions, must provide to stay in the best position before conditions change.
The more weight on his rear wheel, the harder you can brake before sufficient weight is transferred to the front along tone, and that will receive more traction with the ground, spinning or blocked. Try the effect of blocking his rear wheel while rests on the front - will stop forever, and certainly will make a mess of the lawn Jons.
Especially for those who have dropped handlebars, put their weight into the pedals instead of his arms when stopping, especially when stop with his front brakes. This puts more weight on the rear wheel, and lowers its centre of gravity for better direction and stability.
In the same vein, with the bars fell want to go to the drops at the first sign of trouble or when descending, as much leverage that is available to ride with their hands on the hoods. You want to use every bit of additional leverage to mount it on the roads, where the risk of another small endoing is all but nonexistant.
Dodge
About 80% of all accidents involving a bicycle rider running on something else (usually a car that had just made a traffic violation). In many of these cases, and indeed in many car accidents, braking is not the answer (as the rider found out!) But rather the location is the best way to avoid a collision. Especially when in traffic or anywhere else with many unexpected surprises, keep an escape route in mind at all times, so you can quickly veer into the shoulder or sidewalk where a car appeared right in front of you.
If you're braking, but it is clear that it will not be able to stop before it hit the truck, and then accept that, ease off the brakes to gain control of the bike, and run around them. Facilitating out to moderate braking is essential, as a braking uses all of you to stop traction, making a mess of attempted shifts. Whatever you do, do not panic and keep sliding forward until you're sprawl over the hood - or worse, in hospital.
Choose your Land
Especially if your idea is to seize their braking wheel surface that will travel to make a big difference in the efficiency, security and stability braking. Try to choose the soft surface friction with the highest and the lowest number of obstacles.
Slippery, low friction surfaces abound, so avoid them. The sand and gravel, especially if they are covering a hard surface, they are terrible for turning and braking. The oil slicks on the roads, many cars made by braking or making turns hard, you can send sliding at an intersection or a right of the road. The oil on the pavement, and oil over it, mixed with the first rain that falls until it is drawn, which gives a very slippery surface that can not be easily avoided. Wet cobblestones are terrible, even walking, let alone stopping. Wet wet autumn leaves and caps or steel plates should also be avoided when braking or money, or even riding in general.
If you see a region of land closer to the poor, trying to reach all of the brakes before we can get to it, then reduce its braking force to what the new ground can bear. When stopping hard to avoid turning the poor ground is not really an option, to guide directly unless you can relieve your brakes outside the direction of traction needed to dodge.
Brake before turning
Braking with its front wheel seriously reduces their ability to make corners at the same time. If your front wheel skates because of braking or ground (sand on the pavement, for example), your bike will continue its momentum instead of his front wheel, and understeer. Its front brakes provide 70% of its power to stop, and usually work best to boot, so it was only with his rear brakes is indeed a nuisance.
The solution, of course, to make braking before his turn, and ease off the front (and again, if you can) as the brakes starting rotation. The extra power of turning and stability will enable you to spin faster, which more than offsetting a slower approach.
For more information about the slowdown in turns, take a look at our high-speed cornering article.
Learn to pulse
When riding in the rain, gently apply the brakes every half a minute or so to keep them clear of water. Wet tires, unless you've bought special shoes (probably not) will stop a disaster, especially when excess slick tires and blocking the wheels on wet pavement.
Pulse brakes on their long descents, not riding the brakes all the way down. If there is jam or if you want to take it easy, let accelerate the motorcycle, and then slowly downwards, then wait for that once again. Apart from eating their brake pads and tires, cooks constant braking the rim at the temperature obscene. With the tyres inflated near its maximum pressure, or dressed-wheel tubular (!) You definitely want to minimizing the time spent on the brakes, especially with this bump in the pavement or mach speed curve in part Lower ...
Getting used
When riding in the rain, snow, or other unusual conditions, try out the brakes to get an idea of the road. Not only will let you avoid locking the wheels and helps maintain control, but will allow you to judge intuitively how long you'll have to stop, and hence, whether evasive action, brake, or bail (or when begin to shout to get the hell Outta the way).
Do not try this at home ...
If you have no choice but to stop as quickly as possible at a moderate speed, turn the front wheel as you pull the brakes. The wheel and the fork is buckle, the merger of his bike on the road in an accident controlled.
When the brakes in a car are no more than about blocking, braking force is almost 30% higher than when the brake is fully implemented, locking the wheels in a landslide, screeching, belching smoke stop. Locked wheels stop the car quickly and far less because the braking surface is the pavement and a film of melted rubber when the tire contacts, rather than careful engineering brake pads and discs special.
For those with track tyres, and especially for tubular racing tires, blocking the wheels melting all means expensive rubber on the road behind you. A while ago a valve tube in my rear tire became leak, and had to remove it after a few months' use. First, be aware that I had been really kind to my tyres, almost never lock when braking. When I did, I realized that there were about half a dozen spots where banda rolling is melted immediately, in some cases almost to the fabric tight!
Locked wheels are also terrible for the direction and control. You skid and slide, and at worst of all time.
Do not be afraid to use your front brake
When in speed and in a proper launching cycling (bending forward and with a low center of gravity), I have never heard of anyone making a final over blocking its front wheel. In fact, a good brake should not block unless you are trying to block it (an excellent reason to shell out for expensive brakes).
Its front brakes provide 75% of its braking power, and are more difficult to block and not let her back on the slide behind you. On the other hand, you have reason to evade the front brake when you download a steep hill, especially slowly or on a motorcycle when you sit upright (get a new bike if you do), or if you're turning and the need control.
When the brakes, the weight of the rear wheel transfers to the front. If you try hard enough and have enough strength in their hands, can block any front brake and brake as quickly as possible without blocking the wheels is the goal of any emergency stop. The trick is to know whether you're squeezing as hard as you can initiate a short pitchover. In a typical bike with geometry, this point is reached when the rider tries to slow down by more than 0.67 gees, or to halt more than 23.6 mph in one second.
To stop as quickly as possible, squeeze your rear brake lever with moderate strength and resilience to the lever, with the objective of a ratio of 3:1 compared with the braking force rear braking force. Listen and feel his rear tire: when it starts to skid, you know who has lost almost all his weight on the rear wheel. When this happens, ease off his front brake until it is sufficient weight in the rear wheel to keep it on the ground, with sufficient traction and stopping the skid.
Put your weight on Wheels
If you're about to do hard braking with its front wheel, backward as far as you can, even moving immediately saddle. The limits to the farthest back can travel safely will be able to maintain the bars and brakes and be able to run with some traction. As the ride over potholes and depressions, must provide to stay in the best position before conditions change.
The more weight on his rear wheel, the harder you can brake before sufficient weight is transferred to the front along tone, and that will receive more traction with the ground, spinning or blocked. Try the effect of blocking his rear wheel while rests on the front - will stop forever, and certainly will make a mess of the lawn Jons.
Especially for those who have dropped handlebars, put their weight into the pedals instead of his arms when stopping, especially when stop with his front brakes. This puts more weight on the rear wheel, and lowers its centre of gravity for better direction and stability.
In the same vein, with the bars fell want to go to the drops at the first sign of trouble or when descending, as much leverage that is available to ride with their hands on the hoods. You want to use every bit of additional leverage to mount it on the roads, where the risk of another small endoing is all but nonexistant.
Dodge
About 80% of all accidents involving a bicycle rider running on something else (usually a car that had just made a traffic violation). In many of these cases, and indeed in many car accidents, braking is not the answer (as the rider found out!) But rather the location is the best way to avoid a collision. Especially when in traffic or anywhere else with many unexpected surprises, keep an escape route in mind at all times, so you can quickly veer into the shoulder or sidewalk where a car appeared right in front of you.
If you're braking, but it is clear that it will not be able to stop before it hit the truck, and then accept that, ease off the brakes to gain control of the bike, and run around them. Facilitating out to moderate braking is essential, as a braking uses all of you to stop traction, making a mess of attempted shifts. Whatever you do, do not panic and keep sliding forward until you're sprawl over the hood - or worse, in hospital.
Choose your Land
Especially if your idea is to seize their braking wheel surface that will travel to make a big difference in the efficiency, security and stability braking. Try to choose the soft surface friction with the highest and the lowest number of obstacles.
Slippery, low friction surfaces abound, so avoid them. The sand and gravel, especially if they are covering a hard surface, they are terrible for turning and braking. The oil slicks on the roads, many cars made by braking or making turns hard, you can send sliding at an intersection or a right of the road. The oil on the pavement, and oil over it, mixed with the first rain that falls until it is drawn, which gives a very slippery surface that can not be easily avoided. Wet cobblestones are terrible, even walking, let alone stopping. Wet wet autumn leaves and caps or steel plates should also be avoided when braking or money, or even riding in general.
If you see a region of land closer to the poor, trying to reach all of the brakes before we can get to it, then reduce its braking force to what the new ground can bear. When stopping hard to avoid turning the poor ground is not really an option, to guide directly unless you can relieve your brakes outside the direction of traction needed to dodge.
Brake before turning
Braking with its front wheel seriously reduces their ability to make corners at the same time. If your front wheel skates because of braking or ground (sand on the pavement, for example), your bike will continue its momentum instead of his front wheel, and understeer. Its front brakes provide 70% of its power to stop, and usually work best to boot, so it was only with his rear brakes is indeed a nuisance.
The solution, of course, to make braking before his turn, and ease off the front (and again, if you can) as the brakes starting rotation. The extra power of turning and stability will enable you to spin faster, which more than offsetting a slower approach.
For more information about the slowdown in turns, take a look at our high-speed cornering article.
Learn to pulse
When riding in the rain, gently apply the brakes every half a minute or so to keep them clear of water. Wet tires, unless you've bought special shoes (probably not) will stop a disaster, especially when excess slick tires and blocking the wheels on wet pavement.
Pulse brakes on their long descents, not riding the brakes all the way down. If there is jam or if you want to take it easy, let accelerate the motorcycle, and then slowly downwards, then wait for that once again. Apart from eating their brake pads and tires, cooks constant braking the rim at the temperature obscene. With the tyres inflated near its maximum pressure, or dressed-wheel tubular (!) You definitely want to minimizing the time spent on the brakes, especially with this bump in the pavement or mach speed curve in part Lower ...
Getting used
When riding in the rain, snow, or other unusual conditions, try out the brakes to get an idea of the road. Not only will let you avoid locking the wheels and helps maintain control, but will allow you to judge intuitively how long you'll have to stop, and hence, whether evasive action, brake, or bail (or when begin to shout to get the hell Outta the way).
Do not try this at home ...
If you have no choice but to stop as quickly as possible at a moderate speed, turn the front wheel as you pull the brakes. The wheel and the fork is buckle, the merger of his bike on the road in an accident controlled.
Saturday, September 6, 2008
The Joys of Night Riding
Routes
I prefer that roads are open. While in the day, tree-lined roads provide shelter from the wind, there is rarely more than a gentle breeze in summer nights. The unobstructed view of sky and moon-bathed field makes the ride pleasant and picturesque, especially in comparison with the dark shadow that surrounds the road and mounting the roadside near the trees, obstructing the moonlight. Of course, when travelling in the day, or a beacon on a moonless night, a tree-lined road becomes as good as anyone.
Taking a break from writing this article about 2 hours, I rode for over an hour and found only a few cars on two major roads. The meeting of high-speed traffic on a narrow two-lane road, when you do not know if they can see you to change lanes, is a real pain once you get into the slot to walk alone and undisturbed. Therefore, I suggest sticking to secondary roads (at speeds that are lower, and driving in the middle of the road instead of right behind you), which are just as well paved, have a better hills, and pleasant Moonlit fields.
Car Headlights
I separated from my helmet visor to walk on the roads, because it seems to me tuck it blocked my vision when my head down to keep out the wind. However, the headlights of cars are really blind, especially the redneck hitches in puppy crusher that the use of high beams, unless you can block out - and his hands not only of court to block out the lights. The good news is that while the angle, can block the headlights with the small lip on the front in the hull. You may have to adjust the straps, but it should be covering the front to get started. Just tilt your head down, looking at the same time, until the light is slightly outside their field of vision.
Early Warning System
The great thing about riding at night is that you never have to worry about what behind you. Not only because it almost never is, but because the car can determine the type of approach, distance, and if that happens with enough space - all for the future.
The first idea that comes from handlebars. Publicity and lines of white light is placed in the tube, indicating that a car is behind you. Be aware of the position of the moon, but that was mainly looking for his handlebar lights, which are very noticably brighter, even when the car is a hundred meters away.
Watch the way for any height, shadows moving. The tar macadam road, sometimes there are dark stripes running along the road, especially when there are as seam in the middle of the road, so you'll have to take note of the location of these, and to see movement. If you are unsure whether the "shadow" is actually a dark banda, try drifting to the left or right and see if darkness moves.
As the car approaches, "puddles" of darkness appear in depressions in the road, like bands crossing the road. These dark spots and lines are very subjective to the hills, however. Begin to pay a lot of attention for the movement of its shadow over today because the car is near. After seeing a few cars pass, the size and type that shortens the shadow will tell you exactly where and how fast the car is in motion. More importantly, see that the shadow rate slips to the right. If the car is close, and the shadow is still almost in front of you, the average pass beside the road, or another point in the lane with his hand.
Lighting
Do not tell anyone, but I do not use a beacon. I love my night vision is the way, thank you very much, without lights or vehicles that a large bright patch in front of my bike for that mess. But then, I walk only when there is bright moonlight.
If there is no good moonlight, you must use a beacon. (If you wonder if the lighting is good, take a look at the current moon phase on the right.) Otherwise, you can not see well enough to travel quickly, safely or comfortably. You always second-guess the roadside, thinking that the road becomes when and not vice versa, and occasionally having to travel without any visual stimuli at all useful when there are trees on both sides of the road, or when the headlights of cars are in sight. After the moonlight, or in his absence, a beacon of its own, solve these irritations.
Rear Blinker
Despite the rear collisions constitute less than 5% of all collisions between bicycles and motor vehicles, that does not stop you from being paranoid about it when, after half an hour without seeing a car, a transport truck comes barreling behind your some two lane main road. Since there is no real rider uses reflectors, installed in place of rear-face LED Blinker, available for less than $ 15, which is mounted on the back seat.
The psychological effect is mainly in two ways. First, it puts my mind at ease, which tends to worry about putting my life in the hands of the mouth of respite driving up behind me, even though the rear collisions are rare, like the Accidents are the airlines. The second effect is on the driver of the car behind me. Besides being less likely to drive through me, the cars seem to give me more leeway to happen when I Blinker. Go figure.
The final effect, of course, is that it adds back the same weight and air resistance that had removed to obtain a racing bike without reflectors little plastic everywhere. Oh well.
Ground
Empty roads offer substantial freedom to travel to any part of them you please. Choose the darkest regions running along a worn road, which is usually the result of smooth asphalt or oil, both offer much lower rolling resistance. On the other hand, avoid dark patches, which are often potholes, dead animals, and the like.
In addition, the moonlight, street lamps, headlamps and rapprochement will make some parts of the road bright. These strips are soft and have the least resistance.
I prefer that roads are open. While in the day, tree-lined roads provide shelter from the wind, there is rarely more than a gentle breeze in summer nights. The unobstructed view of sky and moon-bathed field makes the ride pleasant and picturesque, especially in comparison with the dark shadow that surrounds the road and mounting the roadside near the trees, obstructing the moonlight. Of course, when travelling in the day, or a beacon on a moonless night, a tree-lined road becomes as good as anyone.
Taking a break from writing this article about 2 hours, I rode for over an hour and found only a few cars on two major roads. The meeting of high-speed traffic on a narrow two-lane road, when you do not know if they can see you to change lanes, is a real pain once you get into the slot to walk alone and undisturbed. Therefore, I suggest sticking to secondary roads (at speeds that are lower, and driving in the middle of the road instead of right behind you), which are just as well paved, have a better hills, and pleasant Moonlit fields.
Car Headlights
I separated from my helmet visor to walk on the roads, because it seems to me tuck it blocked my vision when my head down to keep out the wind. However, the headlights of cars are really blind, especially the redneck hitches in puppy crusher that the use of high beams, unless you can block out - and his hands not only of court to block out the lights. The good news is that while the angle, can block the headlights with the small lip on the front in the hull. You may have to adjust the straps, but it should be covering the front to get started. Just tilt your head down, looking at the same time, until the light is slightly outside their field of vision.
Early Warning System
The great thing about riding at night is that you never have to worry about what behind you. Not only because it almost never is, but because the car can determine the type of approach, distance, and if that happens with enough space - all for the future.
The first idea that comes from handlebars. Publicity and lines of white light is placed in the tube, indicating that a car is behind you. Be aware of the position of the moon, but that was mainly looking for his handlebar lights, which are very noticably brighter, even when the car is a hundred meters away.
Watch the way for any height, shadows moving. The tar macadam road, sometimes there are dark stripes running along the road, especially when there are as seam in the middle of the road, so you'll have to take note of the location of these, and to see movement. If you are unsure whether the "shadow" is actually a dark banda, try drifting to the left or right and see if darkness moves.
As the car approaches, "puddles" of darkness appear in depressions in the road, like bands crossing the road. These dark spots and lines are very subjective to the hills, however. Begin to pay a lot of attention for the movement of its shadow over today because the car is near. After seeing a few cars pass, the size and type that shortens the shadow will tell you exactly where and how fast the car is in motion. More importantly, see that the shadow rate slips to the right. If the car is close, and the shadow is still almost in front of you, the average pass beside the road, or another point in the lane with his hand.
Lighting
Do not tell anyone, but I do not use a beacon. I love my night vision is the way, thank you very much, without lights or vehicles that a large bright patch in front of my bike for that mess. But then, I walk only when there is bright moonlight.
If there is no good moonlight, you must use a beacon. (If you wonder if the lighting is good, take a look at the current moon phase on the right.) Otherwise, you can not see well enough to travel quickly, safely or comfortably. You always second-guess the roadside, thinking that the road becomes when and not vice versa, and occasionally having to travel without any visual stimuli at all useful when there are trees on both sides of the road, or when the headlights of cars are in sight. After the moonlight, or in his absence, a beacon of its own, solve these irritations.
Rear Blinker
Despite the rear collisions constitute less than 5% of all collisions between bicycles and motor vehicles, that does not stop you from being paranoid about it when, after half an hour without seeing a car, a transport truck comes barreling behind your some two lane main road. Since there is no real rider uses reflectors, installed in place of rear-face LED Blinker, available for less than $ 15, which is mounted on the back seat.
The psychological effect is mainly in two ways. First, it puts my mind at ease, which tends to worry about putting my life in the hands of the mouth of respite driving up behind me, even though the rear collisions are rare, like the Accidents are the airlines. The second effect is on the driver of the car behind me. Besides being less likely to drive through me, the cars seem to give me more leeway to happen when I Blinker. Go figure.
The final effect, of course, is that it adds back the same weight and air resistance that had removed to obtain a racing bike without reflectors little plastic everywhere. Oh well.
Ground
Empty roads offer substantial freedom to travel to any part of them you please. Choose the darkest regions running along a worn road, which is usually the result of smooth asphalt or oil, both offer much lower rolling resistance. On the other hand, avoid dark patches, which are often potholes, dead animals, and the like.
In addition, the moonlight, street lamps, headlamps and rapprochement will make some parts of the road bright. These strips are soft and have the least resistance.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
