Saturday, September 13, 2008

Tips for Braking on Roads

Don't lock your wheels

When the brakes in a car are no more than about blocking, braking force is almost 30% higher than when the brake is fully implemented, locking the wheels in a landslide, screeching, belching smoke stop. Locked wheels stop the car quickly and far less because the braking surface is the pavement and a film of melted rubber when the tire contacts, rather than careful engineering brake pads and discs special.

For those with track tyres, and especially for tubular racing tires, blocking the wheels melting all means expensive rubber on the road behind you. A while ago a valve tube in my rear tire became leak, and had to remove it after a few months' use. First, be aware that I had been really kind to my tyres, almost never lock when braking. When I did, I realized that there were about half a dozen spots where banda rolling is melted immediately, in some cases almost to the fabric tight!

Locked wheels are also terrible for the direction and control. You skid and slide, and at worst of all time.

Do not be afraid to use your front brake

When in speed and in a proper launching cycling (bending forward and with a low center of gravity), I have never heard of anyone making a final over blocking its front wheel. In fact, a good brake should not block unless you are trying to block it (an excellent reason to shell out for expensive brakes).

Its front brakes provide 75% of its braking power, and are more difficult to block and not let her back on the slide behind you. On the other hand, you have reason to evade the front brake when you download a steep hill, especially slowly or on a motorcycle when you sit upright (get a new bike if you do), or if you're turning and the need control.

When the brakes, the weight of the rear wheel transfers to the front. If you try hard enough and have enough strength in their hands, can block any front brake and brake as quickly as possible without blocking the wheels is the goal of any emergency stop. The trick is to know whether you're squeezing as hard as you can initiate a short pitchover. In a typical bike with geometry, this point is reached when the rider tries to slow down by more than 0.67 gees, or to halt more than 23.6 mph in one second.

To stop as quickly as possible, squeeze your rear brake lever with moderate strength and resilience to the lever, with the objective of a ratio of 3:1 compared with the braking force rear braking force. Listen and feel his rear tire: when it starts to skid, you know who has lost almost all his weight on the rear wheel. When this happens, ease off his front brake until it is sufficient weight in the rear wheel to keep it on the ground, with sufficient traction and stopping the skid.

Put your weight on Wheels

If you're about to do hard braking with its front wheel, backward as far as you can, even moving immediately saddle. The limits to the farthest back can travel safely will be able to maintain the bars and brakes and be able to run with some traction. As the ride over potholes and depressions, must provide to stay in the best position before conditions change.

The more weight on his rear wheel, the harder you can brake before sufficient weight is transferred to the front along tone, and that will receive more traction with the ground, spinning or blocked. Try the effect of blocking his rear wheel while rests on the front - will stop forever, and certainly will make a mess of the lawn Jons.

Especially for those who have dropped handlebars, put their weight into the pedals instead of his arms when stopping, especially when stop with his front brakes. This puts more weight on the rear wheel, and lowers its centre of gravity for better direction and stability.

In the same vein, with the bars fell want to go to the drops at the first sign of trouble or when descending, as much leverage that is available to ride with their hands on the hoods. You want to use every bit of additional leverage to mount it on the roads, where the risk of another small endoing is all but nonexistant.

Dodge

About 80% of all accidents involving a bicycle rider running on something else (usually a car that had just made a traffic violation). In many of these cases, and indeed in many car accidents, braking is not the answer (as the rider found out!) But rather the location is the best way to avoid a collision. Especially when in traffic or anywhere else with many unexpected surprises, keep an escape route in mind at all times, so you can quickly veer into the shoulder or sidewalk where a car appeared right in front of you.

If you're braking, but it is clear that it will not be able to stop before it hit the truck, and then accept that, ease off the brakes to gain control of the bike, and run around them. Facilitating out to moderate braking is essential, as a braking uses all of you to stop traction, making a mess of attempted shifts. Whatever you do, do not panic and keep sliding forward until you're sprawl over the hood - or worse, in hospital.

Choose your Land

Especially if your idea is to seize their braking wheel surface that will travel to make a big difference in the efficiency, security and stability braking. Try to choose the soft surface friction with the highest and the lowest number of obstacles.

Slippery, low friction surfaces abound, so avoid them. The sand and gravel, especially if they are covering a hard surface, they are terrible for turning and braking. The oil slicks on the roads, many cars made by braking or making turns hard, you can send sliding at an intersection or a right of the road. The oil on the pavement, and oil over it, mixed with the first rain that falls until it is drawn, which gives a very slippery surface that can not be easily avoided. Wet cobblestones are terrible, even walking, let alone stopping. Wet wet autumn leaves and caps or steel plates should also be avoided when braking or money, or even riding in general.

If you see a region of land closer to the poor, trying to reach all of the brakes before we can get to it, then reduce its braking force to what the new ground can bear. When stopping hard to avoid turning the poor ground is not really an option, to guide directly unless you can relieve your brakes outside the direction of traction needed to dodge.

Brake before turning

Braking with its front wheel seriously reduces their ability to make corners at the same time. If your front wheel skates because of braking or ground (sand on the pavement, for example), your bike will continue its momentum instead of his front wheel, and understeer. Its front brakes provide 70% of its power to stop, and usually work best to boot, so it was only with his rear brakes is indeed a nuisance.

The solution, of course, to make braking before his turn, and ease off the front (and again, if you can) as the brakes starting rotation. The extra power of turning and stability will enable you to spin faster, which more than offsetting a slower approach.

For more information about the slowdown in turns, take a look at our high-speed cornering article.

Learn to pulse

When riding in the rain, gently apply the brakes every half a minute or so to keep them clear of water. Wet tires, unless you've bought special shoes (probably not) will stop a disaster, especially when excess slick tires and blocking the wheels on wet pavement.

Pulse brakes on their long descents, not riding the brakes all the way down. If there is jam or if you want to take it easy, let accelerate the motorcycle, and then slowly downwards, then wait for that once again. Apart from eating their brake pads and tires, cooks constant braking the rim at the temperature obscene. With the tyres inflated near its maximum pressure, or dressed-wheel tubular (!) You definitely want to minimizing the time spent on the brakes, especially with this bump in the pavement or mach speed curve in part Lower ...

Getting used

When riding in the rain, snow, or other unusual conditions, try out the brakes to get an idea of the road. Not only will let you avoid locking the wheels and helps maintain control, but will allow you to judge intuitively how long you'll have to stop, and hence, whether evasive action, brake, or bail (or when begin to shout to get the hell Outta the way).

Do not try this at home ...

If you have no choice but to stop as quickly as possible at a moderate speed, turn the front wheel as you pull the brakes. The wheel and the fork is buckle, the merger of his bike on the road in an accident controlled.

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